More Hervás

After getting settled in our room in the lovely El Jardin de La Coveneto, in the little village of Hervás, we took our host’s advice and headed out to explore Hervás. He told us that spring and fall are the busy times in Hervás for hikers; it’s too hot in the summer. One recommendation was a walk though the old Jewish quarter or Juderia. The town was founded in the 12th C by the Knights Templar and a small Jewish community settled here in the 15th C, estimated to be 50 families, a significant population for a town so small. They were engaged in agriculture, medicine, commerce and various trades - textiles, as cobblers, tanners, etc. About half remained in Hervás (practicing their religion in secrecy), following the Jewish expulsion from Spain or forced conversion in 1492. But in the first decades of the 16th C, they suffered harsh persecution, and some, I read, were even burned at the stake.

Hervás is apparently one of the towns in Spain that has made the greatest effort to recognize its Jewish past, restoring and protecting this Juderia and dedicating a street to “Jewish-Christian fellowship”. In early July, there is a Los Conversos festival here that includes a theatrical performance about the expulsion.

The Juderia is a dense little neighbourhood further down into the valley near the river which is crossed by a lovely old bridge. The quarter has very narrow cobbled streets, half-timbered walls, wooden beams from local chestnut trees, little balconies and walls covered in painted abode tiles - the first time we have seen this. There was a synagogue but it is gone. The street signs have the Star of David on them and there is also one arranged in stones on the street.

We also climbed up to the 13th C Church of Santa Maria, built on the highest point of the village, with panoramic views of the town, the valley and the mountains. The sun was beginning to set and there were wisps of wood smoke from the houses below. It looked like one of those children’s farms, everything in miniature.

We badly needed dinner but none of the suggested restaurants were of course open yet - and it was unclear if they would even be open later. So we finally found a little bar in the newer part of town that had a food menu. There was only one guy in the bar and he was eating what looked like a very appealing hamburger. We asked if we could have that. No, the woman said, that’s just for my husband. OK - back to the menu. We order a salad, patates brava and a steak to share. The salad and palates brava we excellent, the steak was tough. Oh, well - we were too hungry to fuss and it was a cosy little place.

We slept like babies in our quiet garden room. We had been asked when we wanted breakfast (included for €71/night) and imagined it would be very simple, given that we were the only guests. But when we went down to the breakfast room, we were astounded by the beautiful buffet of options, all homemade including 4 types of preserves and various cakes, according to Pascal, a French woman who works for the Casa and has lived in the village for 30 years. We ate as much as we could to try and do it justice - fresh orange juice, great coffee, granola and fresh fruit, quince jelly, lemon loaf, different breads, cheeses and meats - and all beautifully presented. So much effort for just the two of us.

Before we left, I had another wander around the garden. It was so beautiful in the morning light with the backdrop of the steep terraced hills behind. We felt very lucky to have experienced Hervás as we headed off on the Via Verde again, crossing the bridge over the river, looking back and down on this magical little place.